Lotion, Cream, Oil, or Balm: Which Moisturizer Should Dry Skin Start With?

Quick answer: Creams are thicker and contain more oil than lotions, and ointment-type balms are the thickest, so if your skin is dry, you can skip lotion and start with a cream. After that, let how your skin feels after applying decide: if it feels tight again or flakes lift within a few hours, move up a step, and if shine or a heavy feeling lingers, go back to the previous step. Before adding a separate oil, check whether the full ingredient list of the cream you use now already includes oils. If your skin still turns red, cracks, stings, or itches after you switch moisturizers, consider seeing a dermatologist.

This guide is for adults with dry skin who still feel tight a few hours after applying lotion and are deciding on their next moisturizer. It covers only when to move up through lotion, cream, oil, and balm (an ointment-type product such as petrolatum) one step at a time and when to step back; it does not cover judging your skin type, ranking ingredients or products, or telling skin conditions apart. This is a brand guide run by SKIN9HARI, and our product description sits separately at the end.

If dryness and breakouts show up together, see Dry Skin That Still Breaks Out? A Cleanse-and-Moisturize Checkup

How are lotions, creams, oils, and balms different?

“Moisturizer” broadly means a product that adds water to the skin and keeps it from escaping, and lotions, gels, creams, and ointments all count (see how to pick a moisturizer). Gels are usually water-based and lighter than lotions, creams are thicker than lotions and gels and contain more oil, and ointment-type products are the thickest. In this guide, “balm” refers to that ointment-type formula, not the name of a medicine.

Oils and petrolatum are also names of ingredients inside creams. Jojoba oil, mineral oil, shea butter, petrolatum, dimethicone, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid are listed together as examples of ingredients to look for when choosing a cream or ointment (see tips for relieving dry skin). So they may already be on the full ingredient list of the cream you use now.

In a study in which 26 healthy young women applied ingredients once to their forearms, petrolatum formed a film and kept skin hydration raised for more than 4 hours (see petrolatum vs. silicone ingredient study). In a crossover study in which 51 adults with dry skin applied one cream split into its components on their forearms, the petrolatum component contributed to lowering the water that escapes from the skin (TEWL), and the glycerol component contributed to raising skin hydration (see glycerol and petrolatum moisturizing cream crossover study). Both were short studies on the arms, so we don’t carry them over to the face as they are.

Names like “intensive moisturizing cream” or “moisturizing lotion” alone don’t tell you how much oil or film-forming ingredient is in a product. That’s because the full ingredient list runs from the largest amount down, but ingredients at 1% or less and fragrances and colorants can be listed in any order (see Korea’s full ingredient labeling guide).

An illustration of four moisturizer textures of different thickness scooped out side by side.

When should dry skin move up to a thicker moisturizer?

The table below sets the formulas side by side for comparison; it doesn’t judge your skin type by how many cells apply to you or score the formulas. “When to move up” and “Signs to step back” are this guide’s suggestions, based on how your skin feels after applying.

Moving up a step doesn’t always make things better. In a study in which 78 healthy adults applied test moisturizers to their forearms for 7 weeks, the water escaping from the skin and irritation responses went up with some formulas and down with others (see long-term moisturizer use study, 2007). These aren’t results for store-bought products on the face, but it’s the reason to step back when something feels uncomfortable.

What should you apply first, and when do you move up a step?

1. If your skin is dry, start with a cream

“So, somebody with dry skin is going to want to start with a cream or ointment and bypass lotions altogether.” — Jason A. Clark, dermatologist, American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin

This is a dermatologist’s comment about skin that gets drier in winter, not the result of a comparison study (see how to pick a moisturizer).

2. Decide the next step by how your skin feels a few hours after applying

If your skin feels tight again or flakes or makeup lift within a few hours of applying lotion, move up to a cream, and if a cream feels comfortable, stop there (this guide’s suggestion). The guidance says to apply a cream or ointment whenever your skin feels dry, and that moisturizer can be applied several times a day (see tips for relieving dry skin).

3. Apply it while your skin is still damp after washing or a shower

The guidance explains that thick creams and ointments spread more easily on damp skin and hold in the water in your skin so it doesn’t evaporate (see how to pick a moisturizer).

4. If a step up feels uncomfortable, go back to the previous step

If shine lingers or your skin feels heavy or small bumps appear, don’t write it off as an adjustment period; drop that step and go back to the previous one (this guide’s suggestion). A dermatologist also advises being careful with products you’re introducing for the first time (see how to pick a moisturizer).

For how many new products to bring in at once, see Sensitive Skin: How Many Products Is Too Many?

An illustration of spreading cream instead of lotion and watching how the skin feels afterward.

Where do face oils and petrolatum fit in?

We found no institutional guidance or comparison study that settles whether to mix a face oil in or whether it goes before or after cream, so follow the directions on the container; this guide doesn’t give a ratio or number of drops. Before that, check whether your current cream’s full ingredient list already includes oil ingredient names.

There is guidance to use lip balm or petrolatum on the lips (see tips for relieving dry skin), and the guidance to use a thicker, greasier ointment at night comes from British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) material for people with skin conditions (see patient information on skin contact reactions). We found no source that sets which areas of the face or how thick to apply it, and we can’t say either way whether it clogs pores or causes small bumps. Try adding it when your skin keeps drying out even with cream, and drop it if it feels heavy or small bumps appear (this guide’s suggestion).

When should you see a dermatologist instead of switching moisturizers?

You don’t need to wait out a set period or keep a full record before getting care. Skin that is red or cracked, itchy or stinging, or has a rash may be excessively dry (see how to pick a moisturizer). The guidance says to see a board-certified dermatologist if dryness continues even when you moisturize as advised (see tips for relieving dry skin), so if any of the following applies, consider seeing a dermatologist first.

• Redness, itching, or stinging continues even after you switch moisturizers.
• Your skin cracks or a rash appears.
• The moisturizer you apply causes burning or stinging.

An illustration of looking into booking a dermatology appointment.

Related guides

• Barrier Cream vs. Moisturizer: Is It Just a Different Name?
• Ceramides: What They Do, Their Types, and How to Read the Label
• Skin Breaks Out Every Season Change — What’s Actually Different?

FAQ

Should you mix a face oil like jojoba or squalane into your cream, and at which step of your routine does it go?

In the sources this guide checked, we found no institutional guidance or comparison study that settles whether to mix it in or whether it goes before or after cream. If the container has directions, follow them; this guide doesn’t give a mixing ratio or number of drops. Before adding one separately, first check whether your current cream’s full ingredient list already includes oil ingredients.

Can you put petrolatum on your face, or will it clog pores and cause small bumps?

Petrolatum is an ingredient that formed a film on the skin and held in moisture in a study where it was applied to the forearm (see petrolatum vs. silicone ingredient study). We found no evidence to say either way whether it affects pores or small bumps on the face. If it feels heavy or small bumps appear when you try it, drop it, and if they continue, see a dermatologist.

When you reapply moisturizer through the day, do you need both a humectant and an occlusive?

It’s easier to choose by formula than by these terms. The guidance says to apply a cream or ointment whenever your skin feels dry, and that moisturizer can be applied several times a day (see tips for relieving dry skin). Lotion has less oil than cream. How to reapply over makeup or sunscreen is not covered in this guide.

What happens if you use too much moisturizer?

In the sources this guide checked, we found no standard for how much is too much. For a set amount, follow the label on the container. In a study where test moisturizers were applied to healthy skin for 7 weeks, results differed by formula (see long-term moisturizer use study, 2007), so rather than using more, consider switching the formula (this guide’s suggestion).

Is a water cream enough on its own for dry skin?

The name “water cream” alone doesn’t tell you how much oil is in it. Creams are usually thicker than lotions and gels and contain more oil (see how to pick a moisturizer), but every product is made differently. If your skin doesn’t feel tight a few hours after applying, that’s enough, and if it does, look at a thicker cream.

Can you tell from the first 10 ingredients whether a moisturizer is for dry or oily skin?

It’s hard to decide by order alone. The full ingredient list runs from the largest amount down, but ingredients at 1% or less and fragrances and colorants can be listed in any order (see Korea’s full ingredient labeling guide). Use oil ingredient names near the top only as a hint, and check by how your skin feels after applying.

What is the best moisturizer for dry skin?

There’s no basis for ranking them. A review of 77 randomized trials in people with skin conditions also found no reliable evidence that one moisturizer is better than another (see Cochrane systematic review, 2017). That’s why this guide suggests choosing by formula and by how your skin feels after applying.

If your skin stays dry after switching moisturizers, when should you see a dermatologist?

You don’t need to wait out a set period. The guidance says to see a board-certified dermatologist if there is redness, cracking, itching, stinging, or a rash, or if dryness continues even when you moisturize as advised (see tips for relieving dry skin). Also tell a dermatologist if the moisturizer you apply causes burning or stinging.

In one sentence

If your skin is dry, start with a cream and move up one step at a time based on tightness after applying, check your cream’s full ingredient list before adding an oil, step back if something feels uncomfortable, and consider seeing a dermatologist if your skin cracks, stings, or itches.

SKIN9HARI products we recommend for this concern

If your dry skin feels tight again a few hours after lotion and you’re moving up to a cream, SKIN9HARI recommends the Revive Therapy N.F Cream. There are three reasons.

• The product detail page places it “after the ampoule, the last step of the routine,” and its directions include layering a small extra amount on dry areas, which fits the cream step.
• On the full ingredient list, glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and squalane appear near the top (2nd to 4th, right after water), and 4 ceramides, 5 types of hyaluronic acid, cholesterol, and panthenol are also listed.
• No fragrance is listed, and it is irritation patch-tested (finished-product 24-hour occlusive patch test).

Clinical study (finished product) of primary skin irritation (24-hour occlusive patch) | Testing institution: Korea Dermatology Research Institute Co., Ltd. | Report No.: KDRI-2019-052-F1 | Study period: December 28, 2018–March 6, 2019 | Participants: 30 adults | Individual results may vary

How to use it for this concern. After washing and toner, and after the ampoule on days you use one, spread a suitable amount of the N.F Cream, and layer a small extra amount only on areas that still feel tight a few hours later. If this one cream feels comfortable, don’t add an oil or balm. Swap only this cream into the place of the moisturizer you use now, and first read the “Other listed ingredients” row in the table (capryloyl salicylic acid, gluconolactone, lactic acid, and others) and the check-before-use wording. Don’t start it on days your skin is cracked or stinging, and if red spots, swelling, or itching appear, stop as that wording says. This product is a cosmetic, not a medicine.

If any of the signs for getting care above apply to you, seeing a dermatologist comes before products. Results may not be the same for every skin type. Product information is on the Revive Therapy N.F Cream product page.

Sources

1. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). How to pick the right moisturizer for your skin. AAD public information.
2. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Dermatologists’ tips for relieving dry skin. AAD public information.
3. British Association of Dermatologists (BAD). Patient information leaflet on skin contact reactions.
4. Easy-to-Find Korean Law Information (easylaw.go.kr). Full ingredient labeling guide for cosmetics.
5. De Paepe K, et al. Occlusion and hydration compared between silicone ingredients and petrolatum. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2014.
6. Vaillant, et al. Crossover study of a moisturizing cream’s glycerol and petrolatum components. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020.
7. Buraczewska I, et al. Effects of long-term moisturizer use on barrier function of normal skin. British Journal of Dermatology, 2007.
8. van Zuuren, et al. Moisturizers compared: Cochrane systematic review. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, 2017.

This guide is general skincare information, not medical advice. SKIN9HARI products are cosmetics and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. If a skin problem is painful, spreading, or persistent, see a dermatologist.