Centella Asiatica: Types of Ingredients and How to Read the Label

Centella asiatica isn’t a single ingredient — it’s an umbrella term covering Centella Asiatica Extract along with madecassoside, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid. Looking at how many of these names appear on an ingredient list, and in what form, tells you what’s actually in a formula. Centella-derived ingredients are used for soothing and conditioning — they are not medicine for acne or scarring.

Quick answer

• Centella asiatica ingredients can be split into the extract itself plus four active compounds.
• When all five appear together, some brands group them as “5-CICA.” That is a marketing shorthand, not a standard grade or a measure of how much is inside.
• Encapsulated or vesicle-processed secondary ingredients derived from centella appear under their own separate names on the label.
• Raw-material supplier data is not the same as a finished-product result, so we don’t carry those numbers over without a footnote.
• The studies discussed here do not establish pore-size or elasticity results for SKIN9HARI finished products.

What is centella asiatica made of?

Centella asiatica is a plant in the parsley family, also known in the cosmetics industry as cica. The extract taken directly from the raw plant is Centella Asiatica Extract, which contains active triterpenoid compounds.

Ingredient suppliers also purify these active compounds separately, or process them further — through fermentation or encapsulation, for example — to create secondary raw materials with different stability profiles and forms. That means the type and processing method of the centella-derived ingredient can differ from product to product, even when the plant source is the same.

How does it appear on an ingredient list?

When these names appear on a label, they identify listed centella-related ingredients. The list alone does not establish their individual concentrations or the supplier’s manufacturing process. If an encapsulated or extracellular-vesicle-processed ingredient is added on top of that, it will show up under its own separate name, such as Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles.

A short checklist for comparing labels

Write down the exact centella-related names on each ingredient list, then check what any stated percentage measures: the finished formula, an extract, or a blended raw material. If that basis is not disclosed, leave it marked as unknown rather than ranking the products by the largest number. “5-CICA” alone does not provide those details.

Next, check whether the product is rinsed off or left on and read its full use instructions. For the products discussed here, follow the product links in the formulation section to compare the current ingredient list and directions. A study of a raw material or a different cream does not establish the performance of the product you are considering.

What is it used for?

Centella-derived ingredients are formulated into cosmetics for soothing purposes — to help calm the look of skin that feels reactive — and for conditioning purposes, to help smooth the texture of skin.

In a 2021 double-blind study of 30 workers with dry hands, both a centella cream and a ceramide cream raised skin hydration after 4 weeks, with no significant difference between the two. A 2016 study tested 2.5% and 5% centella extract formulations on the forearms of 25 volunteers for four weeks, with control and placebo comparisons reported in the figures. The 5% formulations had the strongest hydration results among the tested formulations; this does not establish the same result for a different facial product. Both studies used hands or arms, not the face.

Some technical documents from ingredient suppliers use language that reads closer to a medical claim. That’s the supplier’s own document language, not wording that can be carried directly into cosmetic advertising. What you can reasonably expect from centella ingredients in a cosmetic formula is a soothing, hydrating type of feel.

How does SKIN9HARI formulate with it?

The N.F Cream uses CICASOME™, a centella-derived encapsulated raw material. This ingredient has 24-hour hydration-retention data behind it, but that data comes from a study on the raw ingredient, not the finished product, so we only cite it together with the footnote below.

Ingredient study on 24-hour hydration retention | Testing institution: OATC Skin Clinical Research Center | Test period: April 3–4, 2024 | Test subjects: 20 adult women completed (22 enrolled, 20 completed) | Individual results may vary | Applies to the raw ingredient only

**Primary skin irritation test (24-hour patch) | Testing institution: SkinMed Clinical Research Center | Test no. SM-25M17-SA0120 | Test period: March 17–19, 2025 | Test subjects: 31 adults aged 20–60 | Individual results may vary

The rinse-off A.C Cleanser also contains the same family of centella-derived ingredients. Some centella supplier materials discuss pore size or elasticity, but the ingredient studies discussed here do not establish those results for SKIN9HARI finished products.

In one sentence

Centella asiatica isn’t one single ingredient — it’s a name covering the extract, four active compounds, and the secondary raw materials processed from them — so the way to understand what’s actually in a formula is to look at which of these names appear together on the ingredient list.

FAQ

Does more centella mean more soothing?

An ingredient list identifies listed ingredients; without disclosed concentrations, it cannot tell you how much of each centella component is present or predict how soothing the finished product will be.

Is “cica cream” the same thing as “centella cream”?

“Cica” is the industry’s common name for centella asiatica, so the two terms are largely interchangeable. The specific centella-derived raw materials and processing methods can still differ between products.

Does centella clear breakouts or scarring?

Centella-derived ingredients are used in cosmetics for soothing and conditioning purposes; they can’t be said to clear breakouts or scarring. If scarring or inflammation is severe, consider seeing a dermatologist first.

Is centella safe for sensitive skin?

Centella-derived ingredients are commonly used for soothing purposes, but individual reactions vary. We recommend patch-testing any new product in a small amount first.

Is madecassoside the same as centella?

Madecassoside is one compound isolated from the centella plant, so it is listed separately from Centella Asiatica Extract. “Cica,” “centella,” and “gotu kola” all refer to the plant itself.

Can I use cica cream every day instead of my moisturizer?

A cica cream is a moisturizer with centella ingredients added, so daily use is fine for most people. If it feels heavy, use less, and avoid layering several centella products at once so you can tell what your skin is reacting to.

Does cica cream sting?

It can, depending on the product and your skin. Beyond the centella ingredients, check the full ingredient list for things often linked to stinging, such as fragrance or ethanol, and stop using the product if redness or itching continues.

Where does cica cream go in a skincare routine?

A cica cream is a moisturizer with centella ingredients added, so it goes in the moisturizer step. Other centella products follow their own format: a cleanser belongs in the cleansing step, and a spot product is applied in small amounts only where needed.

Centella cream or ceramide cream: which should I choose?

In a study that compared the two, the difference wasn’t significant. A 2021 double-blind study of 30 workers with dry hands found that both a centella cream and a ceramide cream raised skin hydration after 4 weeks. That was hand and arm skin, so it doesn’t translate directly to the face.

Is CICASOME different from Centella Asiatica Extract?

CICASOME is the name of a raw material made by encapsulating centella-derived ingredients. It starts from the same plant source but is a separately processed ingredient listed under its own name.

Related guides

• Mildly alkaline foam cleansers — is daily use okay? A cleansing guide for breakout-prone skin
• What to check when your face is red and stinging
• Ceramides: What They Do, Their Types, and How to Read the Label

Written and reviewed by

• Written by: SKIN9HARI Content Team
• First published: September 4, 2026
• Last updated: September 28, 2026
• Content standards: Content production standards

Sources

1. Pentacyclic triterpenoids from the medicinal herb, Centella asiatica (L.) Urban. Molecules, 2009.
2. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 2013.
3. Anggraeni S, et al. Role of Centella asiatica and ceramide in skin barrier improvement: a double blind clinical trial of Indonesian batik workers. J Basic Clin Physiol Pharmacol, 2021.
4. Ratz-Łyko A, et al. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract. Indian J Pharm Sci, 2016.
5. SKIN9HARI N.F Cream and A.C Cleanser full ingredient lists (as published by the manufacturer).
6. CICASOME ingredient clinical study data (OATC Skin Clinical Research Center, April 3–4, 2024, raw ingredient study).

This guide is general skincare information, not medical advice. SKIN9HARI products are cosmetics and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. If a skin problem is painful, spreading, or persistent, see a dermatologist.