SKIN CONCERN GUIDE · Ingredient Notes
Centella Asiatica: Types of Ingredients and How to Read the Label
A guide to the different centella asiatica ingredients, what "5-CICA" means on a label, what it's actually used for, and how to read ingredient-study numbers.

Centella asiatica isn't a single ingredient — it's an umbrella term covering Centella Asiatica Extract along with madecassoside, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and asiatic acid. Looking at how many of these names appear on an ingredient list, and in what form, tells you what's actually in a formula. Centella-derived ingredients are used for soothing and conditioning — they are not medicine for acne or scarring.
Quick answer
- Centella asiatica ingredients can be split into the extract itself plus four active compounds.
- When all five appear together on a label, the industry commonly calls this "5-CICA."
- Encapsulated or vesicle-processed secondary ingredients derived from centella appear under their own separate names on the label.
- Raw-material supplier data is not the same as a finished-product result, so we don't carry those numbers over without a footnote.
- Claims about pore size or elasticity are outside what advertising rules allow, so we don't make them here.
What is centella asiatica made of?
Centella asiatica is a plant in the parsley family, also known in the cosmetics industry as cica. The extract taken directly from the raw plant is Centella Asiatica Extract, which contains active triterpenoid compounds.
Ingredient suppliers also purify these active compounds separately, or process them further — through fermentation or encapsulation, for example — to create secondary raw materials with different stability profiles and forms. That means the type and processing method of the centella-derived ingredient can differ from product to product, even when the plant source is the same.
How does it appear on an ingredient list?
| INCI name | What it is |
|---|---|
| Centella Asiatica Extract | Extract from the raw plant |
| Madecassoside | A triterpenoid glycoside derived from centella |
| Madecassic Acid | A triterpenoid acid derived from centella |
| Asiaticoside | A triterpenoid glycoside derived from centella |
| Asiatic Acid | A triterpenoid acid derived from centella |
When all five of these appear together, it means the raw extract has been combined with the purified active compounds. If an encapsulated or extracellular-vesicle-processed ingredient is added on top of that, it will show up under its own separate name, such as Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles.
What is it used for?
Centella-derived ingredients are formulated into cosmetics for soothing purposes — to help calm the look of skin that feels reactive — and for conditioning purposes, to help smooth the texture of skin.
Some technical documents from ingredient suppliers use language that reads closer to a medical claim. That's the supplier's own document language, not wording that can be carried directly into cosmetic advertising. What you can reasonably expect from centella ingredients in a cosmetic formula is a soothing, hydrating type of feel.
How does SKIN9HARI formulate with it?
| Product | Centella-related formulation |
|---|---|
| N.F Cream | Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid (5-CICA) + Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles |
| A.C Cleanser | The same 5-CICA + Centella Asiatica Callus Extracellular Vesicles |
The N.F Cream uses CICASOME™, a centella-derived encapsulated raw material. This ingredient has 24-hour hydration-retention data behind it, but that data comes from a study on the raw ingredient, not the finished product, so we only cite it together with the footnote below.
Ingredient study on 24-hour hydration retention | Testing institution: OATC Skin Clinical Research Center | Test period: April 3–4, 2024 | Test subjects: 20 adult women completed (22 enrolled, 20 completed) | Individual results may vary | Applies to the raw ingredient only
The rinse-off A.C Cleanser also contains the same family of centella-derived ingredients. Some centella supplier materials touch on pore size or elasticity changes, but we don't make those claims here because they fall outside what advertising rules allow, or aren't backed by finished-product evidence.
In one sentence
Centella asiatica isn't one single ingredient — it's a name covering the extract, four active compounds, and the secondary raw materials processed from them — so the way to understand what's actually in a formula is to look at which of these names appear together on the ingredient list.
FAQ
Does more centella mean more soothing?
The number of listed names and their order can give you a rough sense of proportion, but without an exact disclosed percentage, you can't put a number on how soothing a formula is.
Is "cica cream" the same thing as "centella cream"?
"Cica" is the industry's common name for centella asiatica, so the two terms are largely interchangeable. The specific centella-derived raw materials and processing methods can still differ between products.
Does centella clear breakouts or scarring?
Centella-derived ingredients are used in cosmetics for soothing and conditioning purposes; they can't be said to clear breakouts or scarring. If scarring or inflammation is severe, consider seeing a dermatologist first.
Is centella safe for sensitive skin?
Centella-derived ingredients are commonly used for soothing purposes, but individual reactions vary. We recommend patch-testing any new product in a small amount first.
Is CICASOME different from Centella Asiatica Extract?
CICASOME is the name of a raw material made by encapsulating centella-derived ingredients. It starts from the same plant source but is a separately processed ingredient listed under its own name.
Related guides
- Mildly alkaline foam cleansers — is daily use okay? A cleansing guide for breakout-prone skin
- What to check when your face is red and stinging
Written and reviewed by
- Written by: SKIN9HARI Content Team
- First published: September 4, 2026
- Content standards: Content production standards
Sources
- Pentacyclic triterpenoids from the medicinal herb, Centella asiatica (L.) Urban. Molecules, 2009.
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Postepy Dermatologii i Alergologii, 2013.
- SKIN9HARI N.F Cream and A.C Cleanser full ingredient lists (as published by the manufacturer).
- CICASOME ingredient clinical study data (OATC Skin Clinical Research Center, April 3–4, 2024, raw ingredient study).
This guide is general skincare information, not medical advice. SKIN9HARI products are cosmetics and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. If a skin problem is painful, spreading, or persistent, see a dermatologist.